Powered by Comercia.io
What do 1RL, 3RL, RS and Magnum mean on PMU needles, and which sizes fit brows, lips and eyeliner? Start by reading the needle configuration, count, diameter and taper, then match the cartridge to the procedure, skin and machine. This guide decodes PMU cartridge needle sizes, compares the main groupings and explains how professional artists choose and test them without relying on a universal size chart.
Shop PMU Cartridges Explore PMU Supplies
QUICK ANSWER
Which PMU needle should you use for brows, lip blush or eyeliner?
Choose the configuration before choosing the diameter. Kwadron describes RL as a tight grouping for outlines and hair strokes, RS as a looser grouping for shading, MG for broader fills and FL for transparent gradients. Kwadron trainer Susann Herdegen uses 18/1RLLT for delicate nano brows and 25/1RLLT for brow or lip contours; other trainers choose shading configurations for powder brows and lip fills. Match the specific cartridge to the client and PMU machine.
BROWS
Hair strokes and detail: consider a suitable RL. Powder effects: compare shader-type configurations described by Kwadron.
LIPS
RL supports contour work; Kwadron's trainers favor RS-type groupings for transparent lip shading.
EYELINER
A Kwadron ambassador discusses 1RL LT for transferring the design and contouring, and 3RL LT for fuller lash-line work, with placement-specific training.
THE FOUR VARIABLES
What is a PMU cartridge needle, and how is it different from a manual microblade?
A PMU cartridge is a disposable needle module for a compatible machine. Kwadron describes medical-grade casing, stabilization and a protective membrane. Its count, grouping, diameter and taper influence the mark.
Machine PMU includes brows, lips and eyeliner. Manual microblading uses a different tool. Nano brows is a technique, not one standardized needle diameter.
Choose the technique before the product
A cartridge with a fine tip may be useful for a small precise line, while a looser or broader grouping is designed for a different pigment pattern. Kwadron emphasizes treatment area and skin characteristics; changing only the diameter will not turn one configuration into another.
For traditional tattoo needle families, see SVT Shop's tattoo needle guide. This article focuses on the PMU names and applications described by Kwadron and Tina Davies.
DECODING THE LABEL
How do you read PMU needle sizes such as 25/1RLLT or 30/3RL?
In Kwadron 25/1RLLT, 25 denotes 0.25 mm diameter, 1 means one needle, RL means Round Liner and LT means Long Taper. The label describes the cartridge, not a mandatory technique.
| Code element | Kwadron example | Meaning |
|---|---|---|
| Diameter code | 18 / 20 / 25 / 30 / 35 | 0.18 / 0.20 / 0.25 / 0.30 / 0.35 mm in Kwadron's notation. |
| Needle count | 1RL, 3RL, 5RL | One, three or five needles arranged as a Round Liner. |
| Grouping letters | RL, RS, MG, FL | Round Liner, Round Shader, Magnum, Flat. |
| Taper letters | LT, PT, UT | Long Taper, Point Taper, Ultrashort Taper. |
| Surface suffix | T | Textured needle wall in selected Kwadron configurations. |
| Complete example | 25/1RLLT | 0.25 mm, one Round Liner needle, Long Taper. |
Two labels can describe the same diameter differently. The SVT Shop Optima listing uses variant codes such as #08 for a 0.25 mm option, while Kwadron's trainer material uses 25 to identify 0.25 mm. The #08 variant code does not mean eight needles. Read the full cartridge variant, not a single number taken out of context.
CONFIGURATION COMPARISON
What is the difference between RL, RS, Magnum and Flat PMU needles?
Kwadron defines four main layouts: RL tightly groups needles for lines; RS is looser for shading; MG has two rows for fills; and FL uses one row for transparent gradients.
| Grouping | Construction described by Kwadron | Main use | What an artist should compare |
|---|---|---|---|
| RL — Round Liner | Tightly grouped, precise and rigid needles. | Hair strokes, contours, small details and limited fills. | Line clarity, control and whether the grouping suits the required width. |
| RS — Round Shader | Needles arranged more loosely than RL. | Soft shading and broader pigment coverage. | How evenly a shaded effect can be built. |
| MG — Magnum | Two rows of needles. | Larger fills and wider shading. | Whether the area calls for broad coverage. |
| FL — Flat | One row rather than two. | Transparent gradations and 3D-style shading effects. | How the mark transitions between densities. |
RS spacing differs from RL even with similar needle counts. MG and FL are also different arrangements. One procedure may use separate groupings for strokes and shaded areas.
SVT Shop product distinction
The Kwadron PMU Optima listing at SVT Shop contains Round Liner Long Taper variants only. RS, MG and FL are explained here for education; they are not options in that specific SVT Shop listing.
ONE NEEDLE OR A GROUP
What does 1RL mean, and what is a 3RL or 5RL PMU needle used for?
1RL is a single Round Liner; 3RL and 5RL group three and five liner needles. Tina Davies describes fine single needles for detail and larger groupings for more coverage. Count is not diameter.
1RL: isolated detail
Kwadron trainer Susann Herdegen recommends very fine 1RL long-taper cartridges for machine hair strokes and delicate contours. Precision still depends on controlled handling and client skin.
3RL: grouped linework
A three-needle liner makes a different, fuller mark than one point. Kwadron ambassador Isabel Collado describes 3RL LT for lash-line coverage; it is her technique choice, not a universal size rule.
5RL: another liner grouping
A five-needle Round Liner covers a different width from a single needle. It remains RL, not Round Shader or Magnum, even where a wider line is useful.
25/1RLLT and 25/3RLLT share diameter but not count. 25/3RLLT and 30/3RLLT share count but not diameter.
DIAMETER IS NOT THE WHOLE STORY
What is the difference between 0.18, 0.20, 0.25, 0.30 and 0.35 mm PMU needles?
The diameter describes each needle, not the grouping width. Kwadron trainer Susann Herdegen links finer points with detail; its configurator describes thicker needles as more stable on firm skin.
| Diameter | Manufacturer example | What to evaluate |
|---|---|---|
| 0.18 mm | Kwadron trainer selects 18/1RLLT for delicate nano hair strokes or fine eyeliner strokes. | Fine lines under controlled technique on suitable skin. |
| 0.20 mm | Another fine 1RL LT option listed in SVT Shop's Optima variants. | Compare handling instead of assuming it suits every nano treatment. |
| 0.25 mm | Kwadron trainer selects 25/1RLLT for brow or lip contours; the configurator calls it the most flexible option, for normal to dry skin. | Precision and stability for the intended line. |
| 0.30 mm | Kwadron configurator describes a balance of flexibility and stability. | A comparative option for a different feel and pigment pattern. |
| 0.35 mm | Kwadron configurator discusses greater stability for firm, oily or scarred skin and graphic work. | Whether skin and technique support a more stable point. |
These are manufacturer examples, not a universal size chart. Grouping, taper, skin, pigment and working method still affect results. Tina Davies describes different pigment flow between diameters within its PIXL line.
THE SHAPE OF THE POINT
What is a long taper PMU needle, and what do LT, PT, UT and T mean?
Taper is how a needle narrows toward the point. Kwadron lists Long (LT), Point (PT), Ultrashort (UT) and textured-wall (T) variants. Tina Davies says taper length changes puncture size in its own needle comparison.
| Label | Maker definition | Buying consideration |
|---|---|---|
| LT | Long Taper. | Discussed for detailed hair strokes and contour work. |
| PT | Point Taper. | Offered by Kwadron for other configurations; read the exact variant. |
| UT | Ultrashort Taper. | A distinct point shape in Kwadron's wider Optima family. |
| T | Textured needle walls in selected Kwadron designs. | Kwadron associates texture with more pigment saturation and retention. |
Tina Davies compares 3.5 mm Medium Taper with 6 mm Long Taper in its PIXL line. Those are PIXL-specific measurements, not Kwadron dimensions. Check each product specification.
HAIR STROKES VS POWDER EFFECT
Which PMU needle is best for nano brows, hairstrokes or powder brows?
For nano brow hair strokes, Kwadron trainer Susann Herdegen recommends 18/1RLLT (0.18 mm). Tina Davies also discusses 1RL for fine machine strokes. A manual microblade is a separate tool.
For powder brows, the Kwadron trainer recommends RS shading options such as 25/3RSPT-T or 30/3RSPT. SVT Shop links only RL Long Taper variants here.
| Brow goal | Manufacturer example | Decision to make |
|---|---|---|
| Individual nano hair strokes | Kwadron trainer: 18/1RLLT. | Assess fine detail, taper and client skin. |
| Precise brow contour | Kwadron trainer: 25/1RLLT. | Confirm the intended outline and handling. |
| Soft powder or ombre fill | Kwadron trainer: RS or other suitable shading grouping. | Use a needle arrangement designed for the shaded pattern. |
| Combo brows | Tina Davies: a fine RL for strokes plus a separate shading configuration. | Plan stroke and shaded portions independently. |
For persistent healed color concerns, see our PMU brow and lip color correction guide.
CONTOUR VS TRANSPARENT SHADE
What PMU needle is best for lip blush, lip contours or aquarelle lips?
Kwadron recommends RL for lip contours and RS for lip shading. Head trainer Marta Ziółkowska-Serafin describes spaced RS needles as her choice for a transparent aquarelle-lip effect. That is a professional technique example, not a universal prescription for every lip blush procedure.
Lip contour
Kwadron trainer Susann Herdegen recommends its 25/1RLLT for a precise lip outline. Decide whether that suits the client and design before choosing a variant.
Soft lip fill
Kwadron's head trainer favors the looser RS layout for diffused aquarelle shading. A multi-needle liner does not automatically reproduce the same shader effect.
Compare contour and shading marks on a lip-shaped practice surface. The chosen cartridge should match the design rather than simply have more needles.
DELICATE EYE-AREA WORK
Which needle sizes do professional artists use for eyeliner PMU?
Kwadron ambassador Isabel Collado discusses 1RL LT 0.25 mm for transferring the design and classic contouring, and 3RL LT 0.25/0.30 mm for filling the lash line with more depth of color. These are examples for trained specialists.
The same trainer warns against working in tear-duct and outer-corner risk areas. Eyelid anatomy and controlled depth require specialized training, not just a cartridge size.
Eyeliner selection begins with the design
Choose a cartridge based on the shape and coverage the qualified artist intends to create, then test that configuration in the training environment. A needle that fits the machine is only one part of safe, precise eye-area work.
MATCH SKIN TO TECHNIQUE
How do oily, firm, dry or delicate skin types change PMU needle selection?
Kwadron trainer Susann Herdegen considers skin firmness alongside technique. The Kwadron configurator describes 0.25 mm as the most flexible option for normal to dry skin, 0.30 mm as balanced and 0.35 mm as more stable on firm or oily skin.
These are maker preferences, not absolute rules for oily or delicate skin. Evaluate the actual area and technique; a thicker needle does not repair poor working depth.
Check what the cartridge does on your practice surface
Kwadron links inappropriate size and working depth with avoidable trauma or weak pigment retention. Change grouping, diameter and working method thoughtfully rather than trying to solve every difficulty by making more passes.
CHECK PROTECTIVE FEATURES
Do PMU cartridges need a membrane, and are they sterile and single use?
Kwadron describes a protective membrane against backflow, medical-grade casing, individual sterilization and an expiry label. Its trainer warns that missing membranes can create cross-contamination risks.
Inspect before installation
- Check the cartridge packaging and printed expiration date.
- Confirm that the selected cartridge has the protective membrane required by the machine.
- Inspect the tip, housing and needle before use.
- Use each cartridge once and dispose of it correctly after the client.
FDA warns that unsterile equipment can transmit infection. A membrane complements, rather than replaces, professional hygiene.
FIT THE WHOLE SYSTEM
Can you use regular tattoo cartridges in a PMU machine or PMU cartridges in a tattoo pen?
Verify the exact machine and cartridge. Kwadron says Optima is compatible with most PMU machines, but the locking mechanism and membrane requirements still matter.
Review the machine manual, cartridge connection, required membrane and compatible power setup before use. See how to choose tattoo cartridges and our machine comparison for broader equipment context.
LEARN BEFORE TREATING CLIENTS
How should a beginner compare PMU needle configurations on practice skin?
Kwadron trainer Susann Herdegen encourages comparing needle sizes and techniques on artificial skin. Change one variable at a time.
Select a training design
Use brow, lip or eyeliner practice skin appropriate to the skill you are learning.
Identify the full cartridge code
Record diameter, needle count, grouping, taper and machine compatibility.
Practice the intended mark
Compare delicate lines with lines or shading patterns appropriate to the grouping.
Change only a selected variable
Compare a different compatible diameter or count, keeping the other conditions consistent.
Review control and consistency
Record the result and ask a qualified PMU trainer to assess technique before client work.
Browse SVT Shop's practice supplies guide for training surfaces.
AVOID CONFUSING THE LABEL
What mistakes should PMU artists avoid when choosing needle sizes?
Kwadron warns that mismatched configuration, working depth and skin assessment cause uneven results.
Using an RL as if it were an RS
A grouped liner and a loosely spaced shader are different arrangements.
Reading a diameter code as needle count
Kwadron 25 identifies 0.25 mm; 1RL identifies a single liner needle.
Assuming one needle suits every skin type
Kwadron's trainers evaluate both skin firmness and intended technique.
Ignoring membrane or cartridge fit
Check compatibility, packaging and the protective membrane before use.
Trying to fix weak pigment with repeated passes
Kwadron warns that incorrect depth and setup can traumatize skin or cause poor retention.
SVT SHOP PMU SUPPLIES
Which PMU liner cartridges, pigments and practice skins can you compare at SVT Shop?
SVT Shop carries Kwadron PMU Optima RL Long Taper cartridges, practice skin, Perma Blend and Evenflo pigments. The listed Kwadron product does not contain RS, MG or FL variants.
PMU Round Liner Long Taper
Kwadron PMU Optima Cartridges
1RL, 3RL and 5RL LT variants for compatible detail and linework; check the exact diameter and cartridge code.
Practice lip contours
3D Lips Practice Skin FPS-023B
Artificial lip surface for controlled contour and pigment-placement practice.
Practice brow hair strokes
3D Tattoo Practice Skin Eyebrow FPS-012A
Brow-shaped practice skin for comparing fine liner marks and technique.
Practice brow and eyeliner placement
3D Eyebrows and Eyeliner Practice Skin
Training surface for layouts and controlled machine-line exercises.
Professional eyeliner pigment
Perma Blend Eyeliner Black 1/2 oz
Pigment option for trained eyeliner PMU artists; follow product directions.
Warm eyeliner pigment option
Evenflo Warm Black Eyeliner 1/2 oz
Another professional eyeliner shade for artist-directed color planning.
Professional brow pigment
Perma Blend Brunette 1/2 oz
Brow pigment option to compare for the planned hair-stroke or shaded result.
Professional lip pigment
Perma Blend Blushed 1/2 oz
Lip pigment shade for a trained artist's color and contour plan.
CHECK BEFORE OPENING A CARTRIDGE
What should be on a PMU needle buying and setup checklist?
Use the label, technique and machine requirements together rather than relying on a single needle-size chart.
- Procedure: Hair stroke, contour, soft shading or broad fill?
- Grouping: RL, RS, MG or FL appropriate to the mark?
- Complete code: Needle count, diameter, taper and any suffix confirmed?
- Skin: Firmness, sensitivity and planned healed finish considered?
- Compatibility: Cartridge locks properly and has the required membrane?
- Packaging: Sterile, intact, within the labeled expiration date and single use?
- Training: Tested with the actual setup on appropriate practice skin?
SVT Shop supports PMU artists and studios in El Paso, TX, with Next Day Delivery available in El Paso.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
12 common questions about PMU needles and cartridge sizes
Answers from Kwadron and Tina Davies manufacturer education; check your own machine and cartridge labels.
1. What does 1RL mean on a PMU needle?
One Round Liner needle. Kwadron describes its 1RL as a single point for precise lines and details; check the separate diameter and taper markings.
2. What is a 3RL PMU needle used for?
It is a three-needle Round Liner. Kwadron ambassador Isabel Collado discusses 3RL LT for fuller eyeliner lash-line work, depending on technique.
3. What is the difference between RL and RS cartridges?
Kwadron says RL needles are tightly arranged for lines and contours; RS needles are more loosely grouped for shading and broader coverage.
4. What is a magnum PMU needle?
MG means Magnum. Kwadron describes two needle rows for larger fillings and shading; Flat uses one row for different transparent effects.
5. What needle is best for microblading-style nano brow hair strokes?
Kwadron trainer Susann Herdegen recommends 18/1RLLT as an example for fine nano strokes. That is a technique choice, not a universal size.
6. What needle is best for powder brows?
Kwadron's trainer recommends RS configurations for a soft shaded effect. SVT Shop's Optima product listing is RL LT only.
7. What PMU needle do you use for lip blush?
Kwadron describes RL for lip contours and RS for lip shading. Head trainer Marta Ziółkowska-Serafin favors RS for transparent aquarelle effects.
8. What needle size do you use for eyeliner PMU?
Kwadron ambassador Isabel Collado uses examples including 1RL LT 0.25 mm and 3RL LT 0.25/0.30 mm. Specialized eyelid training guides selection.
9. What is a long taper PMU needle?
LT means Long Taper. Tina Davies explains that taper shape changes puncture size and pigment delivery; read the maker's exact cartridge specification.
10. What is the difference between 0.25 mm and 0.30 mm PMU needles?
Diameter changes the needle's point size. Kwadron's configurator calls 0.25 mm its most flexible option and 0.30 mm a balance; grouping and skin still matter.
11. Do PMU cartridge needles need a safety membrane?
Kwadron describes its full protective membrane as a backflow barrier. Use the membrane design required by your machine and discard cartridges after use.
12. Can I use a tattoo cartridge in a PMU pen?
Check the exact machine and cartridge specifications. Kwadron says Optima works with most PMU machines, but similar-looking cartridges are not automatically interchangeable.
RESEARCH
Sources Consulted
Kwadron provides Optima terminology and trainer examples; Tina Davies explains its own needle designs. SPCP and FDA provide limited general PMU safety context.
- Kwadron PMU: Optima Cartridges and Configurations
- Kwadron PMU: Optima Series Guide, Tapers and Membranes
- Kwadron Trainer Susann Herdegen: PMU Needle Selection Mistakes
- Kwadron PMU: Needle Configurator and Diameters
- Kwadron PMU: Matching Cartridges to Procedures
- Kwadron Trainer Marta Ziółkowska-Serafin: Aquarelle Lip Needles
- Kwadron Ambassador Isabel Collado: Eyeliner PMU
- Tina Davies: PIXL Medium vs Long Taper
- Tina Davies: PIXL Needle Diameter and Pigment Flow
- Tina Davies: I-Ink Precision Cartridges and Combo Brow Groupings
- Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals: PMU Equipment and Procedures
- FDA: Tattoos and Permanent Makeup Fact Sheet
